ticking the vinyl decal decorations is among the last steps that complete the kayak. Since the deck spaces are almost used up for various accessories, the boat names and owner’s informations go onto the port and starboard sides instead, and the boat eyes intrinsic for any Vietnamese boat of course! The solar panel is tied on the aft deck, stretched with two short wooden spars, and lines through its grommets.

There’re some more items to be built or fitted for this kayak: the seat, the carriage for transporting the boat. I would rebuild my previous carriage, reuse the 2 wheels, but build it lighter and smaller, to easier carry it on the aft deck. The seat and back rest are also important parts, but those would be postponed to a later phase of the project. Also, I’m still waiting for my spray skirt to be shipped from Amazon.

After sticking the vinyl decal decorations, the bottom receives additional 2 layers of transparent PU paint, making them 3 layers in total for the bottom (the deck only received 2 layers), protecting the vinyls. The handle line pulling through a hole drilled at the bow (with a wooden block inside) is just a simple hang – man knot, the kayak has no handle at the stern, since the rudder has taken up all the space.

It’s so good a feeling to see the boat completed! Looking back on the building progress, there’re still things that I’m not really pleased with, in building quality, in the look & feel, in equipments… But I believe this is my best boat so far, accommodating various small design changes that I’ve found neccessary from my paddling experiences. I should start trialling the kayak soon, to see how she would behave on water! 😀

ectified one problem with the signal light, the bulb is too greedy, it eats up a lot of electricity and could potentially burn up the reed switch (I’ve noticed the reed switch has malfunctioned sometimes due to the high current). So I replace the bulb with 8 small white LEDs (1 Watt each). Some more soldering work, but finally it’s done, equally bright, but less power consumed, and safer for the switch.

Today, I installed and tested the rudder system. First is the two cable lines used to pull the rudder up and down. The 2 lines run back to the cockpit and are attached to 2 small wooden balls, with a short segment of bungee cord. Third image: the wooden balls and bungee cord. The bungee serves as a shock cord, in case the rudder should collide with some thing and kicked back, so that no damage would be done to the whole system.

One simple rule to operate the pull up / down lines: grab the ball that is further from the cockpit and pull it. Well, it sounds pretty simple, but useful enough, when in action, you just don’t have to think over and over again: which line is up, and which line is down! 😀 The two rudder control lines run back to inside the cockpit where they’re attached to the pedals via 2 small wooden jam cleats to adjust the lines’ tension.

All works well, but the pedal motions are not really smooth, because the bungee cords are not strong enough to pull the pedals back (once one pedal is kicked, I would just have to kick the other pedal to balance the rudder). But I would just leave them as they are for now, as they’re working already, would consider replacing the bungees with stronger ones (or revise the design a bit) later on.

fter joining the hull and deck, the hull receives its final bottom glassing. The fiber fabric would overlap the deck about an inch, to better seal the joint. One little trick to make a clean, tidy line at the painting (or epoxy) boundary: mask the area to paint (or to fill with epoxy) with duct tape. Prior to applying (colored) paint or epoxy, brush the duct tape with a very thin layer of transparent paint (or epoxy).

Wait for the paint (or epoxy) to cure, than apply the (colored) paint (or epoxy). That way, the colored paint (or epoxy) won’t leak through the duct tape, cause no matter how good the duct tape is, paint (or epoxy) would leak through, causing a blurry, untidy line. Second image: masking with duct tape, prepare for glassing the hull. I run out of my fiberglass fabric roll after this task, also use up the last drop of epoxy! 😀

The hull glassing receives an additional layer of fill coat, then another layer of epoxy at the 3 seams, then a slight sanding. I don’t sand much, just at some rough places. The color scheme for this kayak is also brown / yellow like my previous two boats, but this time, the colors would be much lighter. Next would goes in the vinyl decal decorations, then varnishing the whole hull and deck with transparent PU paint.

Since the deck’s space is used up for the 3 hatches, the bungee cords, the signal light and solar panel, and other accessories, all decorations would go to port and starboard sides: the boat eyes, boat name, and owner’s information! There’re many many other unnamed tasks required still to finish the boat, so I won’t hope to complete it until next week. However, the kayak would see water and start its trial paddling very soon!

t’s time to join the hull and deck, and now the boat takes its final shape 😀! The gunwales are bevelled differently along their length to better accommodate the deck, paste some putty on the bevelled edges, then I press the hull and deck together, like the two halves of a peanut shell. 😀 Everything goes on quite smoothly, the bow and aft parts fit very well, just use some duct tapes to press them together.

In the middle part, there are some small gaps (about 3, 4 millimeters), so I need to fasten them with some cables. The bulkheads fit really well, firmly holding the deck and hull. To maximize the boat waterproof capability, I carefully fill the internal seams with some more putty at places which are still accessible by my arms. The whole thing is left overnight for the putty to set, permanently forming the boat shape!

The next morning, I carefully trim the deck part. Since the deck is cut oversized, it’s slightly larger than the hull, it need to be trimmed down to match the hull, apply some more putty here and there to fill some remaining gaps, then round the seams (the external sides) in preparation for glassing the hull. Months of preparation, consideration and hard works has finally “culminated” into a seeable, touchable object! 😀

It seems that, at this point, the boat would be able to see water in no time. But actually, there’re lots of works ahead: glassing the hull, install the rudder, rudder control lines and pedals, fitting the bilge pump and signal light, sticking the vinyl decorations (text and boat eyes), fitting the compass and all those bungee cords, various other accessories, etc… and finally varnishing the whole thing with transparent PU paint.

inished all electrical wiring and device testing. It looks simple, but actually, for me, there were lots of works. First is to figure out how the relay pins work. First image: I noted down the wiring diagram of a relay, the 2 pins on the right, one is NO (normally opened) and one is NC (normally closed). The middle pin on the left (the common pin) supplies power to the targeted devices (here is the compass light, just for testing).

The two other pins supply power to the relay itself, when powered on (decided by the reed switch), the relay switches from NC to NO position, hence supplying power to the compass light. All wirings runs back to a central point: the plastic waterproof wiring box, which houses the battery, the solar charge controller, the relay… It took me some times to install all in the box, connect the correct wires, check if everything works!

The PowerFilm solar panel shipped with a long water proof detachable cable, so I run the cable from the central compartment to further aft where the solar panel would be located. This cable runs through a cable gland to exit the deck, ended with a waterproof connecter. It’s not very nice to always have this connector on deck, but it’s convenient to disconnect the solar panel and stored away when it’s not in need.

There would be another waterproof box (connected to this wiring box which would be rarely opened) which houses the 12V – to – USB and the 12V – to – AA charger, which could be usually opened to put your various devices in for charging (iPhone, VHF radio…) But that would be in another later phase of the project. It now time to joint the hull and deck parts together to form the final boat shape! 😀

ext is running the electric wires. I want them to be completely waterproof, so every wire running is placed inside plastic tubes for additional protection. First image: I solder 3 reed switches with wires, place them inside the small wooden bar, seal it completely with epoxy, and glue them under deck inside the cockpit. The letters C, P, L mark the positions of the switches for: compass, pump and light.

All wiring runs back to the day hatch, where a central box housing the main battery. I just use a LOCK & LOCK plastic box, it’s pretty much very watertight, if you close it properly. All wiring tubes would be connected to the box through cable glands with silicone glue. Another issue solved is the relay, it took me an hour to figure out how the PCB relay wiring works! Luckily, I haven’t forgotten all electric knowledges learnt in college! 😀

Since the reed switch is so tiny, it usually can’t stand the amplitude of the current required by the bilge pump. So the reed switch is used to activate another switch (the relay), which can handle the current (it’s so good a feeling to hear a small ‘click, click’ sound when the relay is activated / deactivated) 😀 The electrical, electronic parts of the project is not as hard as I’ve expected, all is done quite neatly!

Today, most equipments I ordered from Amazon has arrived: the PowerFilm 7W rollable solar panel, the SunGuard 4.5 Amp solar charge controller, the Rule 500 GPH (gallon per hour) bilge pump, a marine signal light, one Stohlquist “high – back” PFD… and some other things. I was feeling very good, as this phase of the project could be completed soon, and the boat is already somewhat quite near its completion!

ow working on the electrical parts of the project. From other renowned sea kayakers, I’ve long learnt about their electrical and electronic system. And my own experiences pointed out that, the need for a battery system to run a bilge pump (and to power various other devices) is very urgent and obvious. From the very early phases of this project, I’ve been thinking over and over again about it.

The system would have a solar panel, to charge into a SLD (sealed lead acid) battery. The battery is used to power the bilge pump, its primary purpose. But since now I have a 12V DC electric system onboard, I could use it to: illuminate the boat’s compass, power the signal light, and to charge various electronic devices: the iPhone, the VHF radio, the Garmin, cameras, etc… Basically, I want an independent system that power all.

First is the compass light, some white LED sources to illuminate the compass in case of paddling at night. I could just buy a compass with built – in lighting, but those such compasses are not readily available in the local market, and usually they’re a bit oversized for a tiny boat like Serene – 2. So I decided to modify my current compass to accommodate 4 white LED bulbs, the result is beautiful (1^st & 2^nd image)! 😀

The most special thing in my electrical system is… the reed switch, a sealed electric switch which could be activated by a small piece of magnet (3^rd image). That way, the switches could be hide and sealed inside the hull, completely covered in epoxy to protect them from water, and they could be turned on / off by the presence of some small pieces of magnet outside of the hull. I’ve found the idea… simply brilliant! 😀